THE BALDER I GOT the more I found myself scratching the top of my head by holding my fingers stationary on my scalp and nodding my head yes. Surely nothing serves us as well in easing an itch as the fingers. Sensitive, mobile and nail-tipped, fingers are universally acknowledged as the sultans of scratch, the champions of chafe. What weirdness was it that made me indulge this head-shaking gambit? After all, I wouldnt hold my hand steady and jump up and down to rub my belly, or hold my toothbrush still and shake my head. And Ive tried jack-in-the-pulpiting off, if you will, with the rock-steady hand and the elvis gyrations, and it just doesnt do it for me; its like driving with the parking brake on. Gotta have the hand. Fish finally gave me the head-scratching perspective I needed. Fish, the vegetable, more accurately. You know what Im on about here. The fish (or fish and poultry) eating vegetarian. As a cook its confusing: when I think of food that has the desire and ability to escape Im not thinking vegetable. To resolve my difficulties with the concept, I consult a higher authority; former U.S. President Ronald Reagan. You recall he was the guy who declared that ketchup was a vegetable. Now were in the zone: if this was close enough for the commander-in-chief of the worlds mightiest nation, who was I to quibble? Liberation! These days when a vegetarian diner wants onion, olives and oysters I dont quibble or dither. I COOK THE DAMN THINg! You picked pickles, peas, and pickerel? IM NOT PAUSING, IM POACHING!!! Now when Im thinking "behold, my only begotten veg in whom I am well pleased", Im thinking leek, lettuce and loganberry, sure... but Im also thinking lobster, lake trout and king cod AND IM LOVING IT!! NO MORE WALLS!! Thank you, Mr. Reagan. Not only do I still scratch my pate by nodding the noggin; Ive discovered the considerable joys of scratching my instep with my big toe; my back on a door-jam; my heels with an old french knife. Scratch on, fearless ones. Find your own level of freedom. Fish the vegetable, ya bastards. |